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Cocaine Country Dancing
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Echoes Wall
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Cocaine Country Dancing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Echoes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Granny's Back in Prison T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Levitation 69 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rainbow Tea Time T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Matthew Tangeman |
| Page Views: | 952 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Tangeman on Mar 1, 2021 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A beautiful, varnished left facing dihedral. "Not your typical Creek route" - a description which seems to be becoming more and more typical.
The corner begins easy enough, with good stances and occasional finger pods, but progressively ramps up in difficulty before the final crescendo of burning calves, tiny gear, and trusting the rubber.
Unless you have tiny, tiny fingers, expect to climb this route with your legs more than your hands. The inside of the crack is varnished, making the small gear feel very solid. You can place cams every inch of the way, but you'll likely commit to sequences above your gear at some point.
Protection
A variety of cams in the purple and blue metolius range - having a mix of brands is helpful. I placed 4 blue metolius, 2 red c3's, 3 purple metolius and a gray metolius. You might want more if onsighting at your limit or nesting gear or aiding, but I felt like I sewed it up pretty good.
Black totems and yellow dragonfly's protect nicely where the crack pinches between purple and blue. BD .3's are too big. There are a couple finger pods down low where you can place a "big cam" in the .3-.5 range, but you'll also want your fingers there.
Black totems and yellow dragonfly's protect nicely where the crack pinches between purple and blue. BD .3's are too big. There are a couple finger pods down low where you can place a "big cam" in the .3-.5 range, but you'll also want your fingers there.
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