Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave & Colin, April 2004
Page Views: 590 total · 13/month
Shared By: Daniel Chode Rider on Feb 25, 2021
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan
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Description Suggest change

A long snow and ice route up the north face of Summit Chief, with continuous ice for almost the entire face. Climbable generally in spring.

From below the face, begin via several WI2-3 pitches that lead up and left on a ramp for 600 feet. One WI3 pitch climbs into the first snowfield bowl, which connects with short steps to several others. The exit step (AI2) continues to the summit ridge.

Descent: Downclimb the snow gully on the southwest side of the face, then make two 30m rappels and contour back to the base of the route.

Location Suggest change

Drive, bike and hike the Middle Fork Snoqualmie road and trail until you can bushwhack into the alpine valley below the north face.

Protection Suggest change

Two ice tools, crampons, rope and helmets. Several ice screws and a few pieces of rock pro.

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