Mount Sugarloaf Ice Flow

This is a big, fat ice flow that goes down the center of the cliff. Driving north on Route 116, it's super visible and just begs to be climbed when it's in as it provides a direct, aesthetic route to the summit. It faces southeast and gets a lot of sun, so an extended cold streak and cloudy weather are ideal for climbing it in good condition. There are beautiful views of the Connecticut River valley and UMass the whole way up.

Start by climbing over a few small bulges (easy WI3) to get to a less steep section. When I did it, this section was thin ice and snow on top of bare rock, very insecure, and no pro. This gets you to some steep curtains at the top (optional WI3+ finish), or you can skirt left to the trees to finish on some easy ice. Belay at a tree to the left of the curtains, or at the curtains themselves if that ice is good, to split it up into 2 pitches.

Approach: park at the lot on Route 116 on the south side of the mountain. Walk northeast through the woods, traversing underneath the east face of the mountain. When you see the ice climb up the hill, go up.

It is smack dab in the center of the cliff. You can't miss it.

Screws. There are trees at the top.