All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Farmhouse > 5 - Whippersnapper Wall

Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension)

Name: Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension)
Rating: 3.5

5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in 5 - Whippersnapper Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Curse of the Jackal S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Iron Phoenix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cross of Coronado, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Temple of the Sun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Temple of Doom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Canyon of the Crescent Moon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Canyon of the Crescent Moon (Full Moon Extension) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Raiders of the Lost Crack S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Ol’ Dusty Trail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Redpoint Redemption S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Mutton Buster S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Golden Fleece, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Knowledge was their Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Don't Call me Junior! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Misery and Gin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Stags in Rut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hang the DJ S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Blood S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

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Type:	Sport, 140 ft (42 m)
FA:	Nick Henscheid, Jeff Gicklhorn Feb 2021
Page Views:	1,619 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Nick Henscheid on Feb 7, 2021
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW ! Details

You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.

Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.

Description

WARNING: this route is longer than 40 meters. It is extremely unlikely that you can lower to the ground with a 70m or 80m rope - use the midpoint anchor to double lower or rappel twice. You should be able to double lower with a 60m but this has not been tested - TIE KNOTS! If you have never double lowered before, make sure you learn how first!

Canyon of the Crescent Moon now has an extension that takes it to a logical conclusion at top of the wall. Since the existing Crescent Moon has been well-received, is a lower grade, and ends at a logical midway point, I'll post this as a separate route. I may come up with a more cleverer name eventually.

While the grade is certainly higher (than Crescent Moon), the crux is short, extremely fun and well-protected. In my biased opinion, the extension adds a strong half to full star to the existing route, making it into a long, extremely varied and exciting full value line.

From the anchor on Crescent Moon, make an insecure mantle onto a ledge, then head for the bolts. After the first few feet of so-so rock, you'll find yourself in a sea of high-quality limestone, featuring pockets, sidepulls and crimp slots, leading up to a steepening section of featured rock with some neat flowstone. Rest up before launching into a final crux that requires power, footwork and body position. More grin-inducing pockets and a final insecure mantle guard the chains. Make sure to turn around and enjoy the view!

Grade is a bit of a guess, I felt tired today but sent (the extension) on only my second try. Could go either way.