Rainbows and Tufacorns
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Mike Vaughn |
Page Views: | 525 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Townsley on Feb 7, 2021 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
- Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land.
Description
Climbs left of Tufa King to the first set of chain anchors. All of the business is from bolts 2-4. Pinches, sidepulls, and underclings will get you to a good rest around bolt 5. From here move right then straight up or 2 bolts or so, before going up and left for the final moves. Don't underestimate the pump on this one. The last 3-4 holds are very positive but can feel bad on pumped arms.
Recommendations: Belay from the lower level, left side of the palo verde. Bring up a stick and pre-clip bolts 1 & 3. Belayer should give a soft catch to ensure the climber clears the roof on a fall.
Beware: I don't think this route has seen much action, as it is still very much shedding rock. Be careful as the climber and wear a helmet as a belayer.
Note: There is a bolted extension thought to go at around 13b, unclear if that has been sent.
1 Comment