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Devil's Buttcrack
5.11,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
FA: Kevin Capps, 2017
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Death Valley
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31 Visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/alerts… The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season. Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
This route is a one roof move wonder with an awesome overhanging crack boulder 40 feet of the ground.
Approach via an easy slab with one high bolt. Slab has horizontal cracks that take small cams and tricams. Then pull the “butt crack,” and get established on the face. A big stopper and #0.5-#1 Camalots protect the business well. You can place a 2, but it would take a key jam.... After the roof, run it out on easy terrain to the anchor up and left (shared with adjacent routes).
FA: Kevin Capps, '17
Location
Protection
1 bolt and small - mid-size cams (#0.3 to #2 Camalot, large stopper useful).
![Devil's Butt Crack goes up the obvious, overhanging crack.]()
[Hide Photo] Devil's Butt Crack goes up the obvious, overhanging crack.
![A close up of the Devil's Buttcrack.]()
[Hide Photo] A close up of the Devil's Buttcrack.
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Denver, CO