Grab 'Em

This is a step up in seriousness compared to the seemingly innocent nature of the climb next door. As the pump begins to grow and you slot your fourth successive RP, you may catch a glance of the sport climbers to your right and begin to pine for an era reminiscent of the Clinton administration. An era when a consensual affair with an intern was all the controversy a president needed for impeachment.

Pitch 1: 35m/10d

Start about 10 meters to the climber's left of U.G. in the obvious crack system. Power through the roofs on stiff 5.10 moves protected by a #3 (and optional #4 a little higher). Prepare for some pump as you work up the crack to the anchor.

Pitch 2: 55m/5.10- 

Traverse left in the crack and then head straight up to the big comfy ledge. A never-ending pitch of 5.9 moves and small gear. Take a minute and enjoy watching the sport climbers learn to multi-pitch. 

Pitch 3: 15m/5.11- 

Like many of the splitter cracks in Red Rock, this one is hard to get to and not long enough. Thoughtful movement leads you to a roof. A big reach out left puts you on the face and into easier terrain. Move up and right to gain the belay on this short pitch. 

Pitch 4: 30m/5.10+ 

This is the crack that will take you to the top and eat all of your brassies and offsets on the way. Lots of small gear, and nothing bigger than 0.75.

Pitch 5: 30m/5.11

 Lace up those ballet shoes and dance your way up this intricate pitch. The most sporty sequence toward the top is well protected. 

Pitch 6: 35m/5.10+ 

Thug your way through the two well-protected roofs to gain some sweet, sweet varnished rock. This moment is bittersweet because as the rock quality nears perfection, the difficulty subsides and the climb comes to an end. Climb onto the pillar on the left side of the ledge and belay at an anchor.

DESCENT: 

Scramble up from the left side of the pillar to a rap station. 30m rap into the bowl, from the spot where you land in the upper reaches of the bowl, pull and coil your rope(s). Do not head down into the bowl! Instead, look for a cairned path through a patch of scrub oak between you and the edge of the cliff. Following this path for 15 seconds leads to a ledge and a pair of ring bolts. Rap straight down via bolted anchors 5 or 6 times with a single 60m rope (or fewer with two ropes). This is the route All You Can Eat - be wary of other climbers who may be below you. For more information see: Rap Beta

The route starts about 10 meters to the climber's left of Unimpeachable, in the obvious crack system.