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North Castle Butte

Name: North Castle Butte
Rating: 2.0

4th YDS 1 French 2 Ewbanks I UIAA 2 ZA M 1b British

Routes in Castle Peaks

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	North Castle Butte T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
	Dove Benchmark T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

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Type:	Trad
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	497 total · 9/month
Shared By:	J Smith on Jan 13, 2021
Admins:	C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Cool peak, especially if you have already done Dove. The cruxes of this route consist of two 3rd class and one 4th class section all around 15' in length. From the cave, go left and up and then contour around to the right reaching a short cliff band - there are a few different 3rd class breaks in this cliff. Head straight up to the summit block and find a ramp going up and left. You will find the 4th class section at the end of this ramp. The holds are big but there is a lot of loose rock. At the top of the 4th class section head up and right to a dihedral of sorts and climb the final 3rd class section to the summit. To descend, reverse the route - hardest part of the route may be the initial downclimb of the 4th class section.

Location

This peak is 1/2 mile NE of Dove. Approach as for Dove but once you are below Dove's west face continue NE over a small rise and head for the small cave at the base of North Castle's west face. There is a decent use trail in this area if you can find it.

Protection

None. You could bring a rope and a few pieces of pro but the rock is loose and can break. Test your holds! Not a lot of options to set up a rappel above the 4th class section either.