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The Big Sleep

WI6 M6, Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 17 votes
FA: Alex Lowe and Jim Scott
Montana > Southwest Region > Hyalite Canyon > Flanders
Warning Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. DetailsDrop down

Description

A classic Hyalite test piece.

Location

Climbers left of Bobo Like

Protection

screws, cams, pins, specters, etc

See McKelvins comment below. For context, he seems like a strong climber, comfortably working through the area classics, rather than someone pushing their grades.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Myself battling Covid and the elements With permission from Mik Metzler
[Hide Photo] Myself battling Covid and the elements With permission from Mik Metzler
P2.
[Hide Photo] P2.
P1.
[Hide Photo] P1.
Climbers on pitch 2 of The Big Sleep. Pitch 1 visible through the trees down and left of belayer.
[Hide Photo] Climbers on pitch 2 of The Big Sleep. Pitch 1 visible through the trees down and left of belayer.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Noah McKelvin
Nomad
  WI6 M6
[Hide Comment] In mixed conditions, the crux pitch is one of the best pitches in hyalite! Singles from .5 to 1, and a specter is about all you need for the crux pitch. There are two knifeblades fixed in choss. The climbing is steep moss M6 after the cauliflower section trending up and left. The traverse right to the dagger may be the crux or maybe its the WI6+ ice roof thereafter. Feb 6, 2022
ASAP Becky
Safeway Parking lot in Canmore
 
[Hide Comment] The Resurrection start is totally doable but the worst pitch of rock I’ve been on in a really long time; choss wise that is. Feb 28, 2023