Pleiades

Pleiades is a unique ice route which descends/ascends a slot canyon with a number of short drops.

Rappel into the canyon starting from tree anchors and likely natural anchors which can include stacked rock cairns and slung flakes.  Additional anchors can be had amongst the ice features.  Rappels start out short in the 20 to 30 foot range and will extend to a couple of 70 footers at the end of the canyon.

The middle of the route can be devoid of ice, or, have very poor ice conditions.  Either have the rock gear to lead these sections, or, leave a top rope, or turn around and climb out the short ice pitches.  One could always hike back to the car from the bottom of the canyon but deep, untraveled snow may make this a challenge in the least (and take care with terrain trap avalanche conditions).

Pitches, climbing out when the ice is completely in, will typically start with a nice lower angle 70 feet of ice followed by another 70 foot pitch up a skinny sliver of ice to a dark room.  The middle pitch has either 30 feet of pillar or a rock climb up steep ramps and wide cracks.   Finish up with a couple more short 10 to 30 foot steps with some hiking distance in between.  Retrace steps to car park.

A higher elevation and healthy snowpack conspire to keep this route viable.  Ice conditions are likely better later in the season than early.

Take care with ice tools and crampons as the canyon walls are sandstone and prone to damage.  Swing light and tread carefully to avoid any unnecessary damage.

Existing anchors in the canyon probable due to the popularity of the canyon as a canyoneering venue.

From the La Sal Loop road, follow the Geyser Pass road for around 2.9 miles to the trailhead.  There’s a pullout at a hairpin turn for a trailhead on the south side of the road.  Hike south to Brumley Creek and follow down to the first drop.

Lacking recent traffic, the trail may have to be broken in deep snow which may be mitigated with snowshoes or skis.