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Fake News

5.11-, Sport, 399 ft (121 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 8 votes
FA: Dan Gleason 2019
Washington > Okanogan > McLoughlin Cany… > S Buttress

Description

Pitch 1: 5.10B Good rock and 8 bolts takes you to a nice ledge and two bolt rappel anchor about 90 feet up the wall. Technical finish to a real enjoyable pitch.

Pitch 2: 5.11A Steep and positive 100 foot pitch on great rock. A real gem.

Pitch 3: 5.10D Right from the belay anchors and find your way through a roof. Stop at a two bolt anchor in a big gold ledge/ cave. One of the best belay positions in the canyon. Short pitch that can be linked into pitch 2 or 4.

Pitch 4: 5.11A Climb right out the cave on positive holds to a headwall crux out of view of your belayer. Go past rap anchors to a ledge with two bolt anchors.

Pitch 5: 5.9 Climb up and then left to a clean face, to the top of the wall.

Rappel the route with one 60 meter rope or walk off. Gets a lot of sun and is sheltered from the north winds. Great climbing on steep, positive rock. Originally I linked pitches, and stopped less. The route has such great belay ledges, and to reduce rope drag, I recommend doing the route in five pitches.

Location

South Buttress of the South Main Wall.

Protection

Well protected with bolts, chain rap anchors at belays, can rap from any place on route with single 60M.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 4
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4
Fake News
[Hide Photo] Fake News
Pitch 1 of Fake News with overhangs looming above.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 of Fake News with overhangs looming above.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zachary Winters
Winthrop, WA
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Phenomenal route! Dan has created something special with these additions to the canyon he cherishes and knows inside out.

Mostly positive climbing that is much steeper than it appears, including some too good to be true steep, juggy, and exposed sequences.

Rap from the top to the chains just below the belay on top of p4, then skip the cave belay and go to the top of p2, then two more gets ya down. 1 60m rope does it.

Do it. Mar 20, 2021
Vlad Alexandrov
Woodinville, WA
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] It's easy to link 3-4 together if you aren't paying close attention. P3 is very short. Linking isn't really an issue though and rope drag isn't too bad even with minimal extending.

Some spicy climbing in a couple of spots (if leading at your limit) but overall a stellar, pretty well protected route. May 29, 2022