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Routes in South Buttress
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Climate Change S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fake News S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fantasy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pandemic S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Tao of Pooh, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport, 399 ft (121 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Dan Gleason 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,644 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Canyonlife2020 on Dec 23, 2020 |
| Admins: | applewood, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Pitch 1: 5.10B Good rock and 8 bolts takes you to a nice ledge and two bolt rappel anchor about 90 feet up the wall. Technical finish to a real enjoyable pitch.
Pitch 2: 5.11A Steep and positive 100 foot pitch on great rock. A real gem.
Pitch 3: 5.10D Right from the belay anchors and find your way through a roof. Stop at a two bolt anchor in a big gold ledge/ cave. One of the best belay positions in the canyon. Short pitch that can be linked into pitch 2 or 4.
Pitch 4: 5.11A Climb right out the cave on positive holds to a headwall crux out of view of your belayer. Go past rap anchors to a ledge with two bolt anchors.
Pitch 5: 5.9 Climb up and then left to a clean face, to the top of the wall.
Rappel the route with one 60 meter rope or walk off. Gets a lot of sun and is sheltered from the north winds. Great climbing on steep, positive rock. Originally I linked pitches, and stopped less. The route has such great belay ledges, and to reduce rope drag, I recommend doing the route in five pitches.
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