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Gumbercules

Name: Gumbercules
Rating: 2.8

5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Free University Wall (E Face)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Elle Em entary School S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Free University S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Freshman S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gumbercules T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In the Pokey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Too Tall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	University Heights S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Justin Headley, Ashleigh Thompson, AB, ST, JL, 2020
Page Views:	1,553 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Justin Headley on Dec 19, 2020
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 for nesting peregrine falcons. Details

"This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.

If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.

Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.

More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…"

Description

A mildly-moderate mid-mountain mixed-route multi-pitch. Morning sun and afternoon shade.

Pitch 0: 25 feet. 4th-class slab with 1 bolt. Chain anchors. This anchor can be used for teaching people how to rappel, belay from the top, build/clean anchors, etc. Or link it with Pitch 1.

Pitch 1: 100 feet. Clip a bolt and then climb up to a short, steep, layback crack. This is probably the crux of the route. Pull the crux and then follow a crack for about 30 feet. Then, start trending up and slightly left on chickenheads/plates until you reach a 2-bolt anchor. This anchor has lower-off biners, in case you want to stop here. You can lower to the top of P0 (where most climbers would feel comfortable un-roping) with a 60m, or you can reach the bottom with a 70m. Tie knots in your rope ends!

Pitch 2: 80 feet. From the P1 anchor, traverse about 8 feet to the right (past the corner), and then climb up and slightly right on plates. You can get some small cams and nuts in cracks or between plates. When it gets steep, you'll encounter the first of 3 bolts. Climb past the bolts and belay at a 2-bolt anchor on a really big ledge. Or you can make an anchor on tricky gear about 10 feet to the left of the 2-bolt anchor, but you'll probably want to eventually transfer the belay to near the bolted anchor for P3 anyway.

Pitch 3: 100 feet. From the 2-bolt anchor, climb up and to the right, past 3 bolts, and then scramble up whatever path you want until the climb levels out. Find something natural to belay off of. There are plenty of options. It's still another 80 feet to the true summit, but most climbers would feel comfortable un-roping at this point and just hiking the rest.

Scramble off the back of the formation, and then bushwhack down and east, back to where you started.

Location

This is on the east face of Barnum Rock. You hike past it before you arrive at Gumbuttress and the other routes commonly associated with Gumby Wall. It starts at the bottom-most portion of the slab.

Protection

A few bolts on sections that can't be protected with gear. A single rack up to #3 and nuts should be sufficient. Some small cams (like BD .2, .3) are useful on P2, but small nuts could suffice. Bolted anchors at the top of P1 and P2. You'll have to make a natural anchor at the top of P3.