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Routes in Main Wall
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Alternative Cedar T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Autumn Winds T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blood Shot Eyes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bloody Cedar T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eastern Cedar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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La Tortuga T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lucky Shoes T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mayday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turtle Killer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turtle Lips T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Turtle Policy T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Where Old Men Go To Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 655 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Pinche Gringo on Dec 16, 2020 |
| Admins: | Luke Cornejo, saxfiend |
Description
This is a fun 4 pitch route up the tallest section of Turtle.
P1 - 5.9 - Start up a slab past two bolts then follow a fun flake feature up to a short roof. Pull the roof and go another up to a stance with a bolted belay.
-There's an alternate second pitch to this that goes up and right following another weakness with the last 1/3 being a dirty scramble. It bypasses the normal P2-P3 and ends up at the right side of the Upper Deck.
P2 - 5.10 - From the anchor go up and left aiming for an obvious orange overhung corner. Work though the corner up and left with a fun crux section then pull up and over the lip to the big ledge. There's a tree you can belay from but a bolted anchor is further back on the ledge.
P3 - 5.8 - This pitch is a 40-45ft highly featured slab that can be climbed a few different ways that ends at the Upper Deck.
P4 - 5.9 - The upper deck is home to about 10 single pitch lines up steep overhung climbing with bomber gear and great 'false' exposure. The last pitch of this line goes up the the face just left under the roofs. Once you get above the first roof, you step right following cool holds to get to the second roof. Don't go left as there is a huge death block you'd have to climb past. From here you pull up and right and mantel to top out. You can climb the beginning corner but the drag is much worse than climbing the face just left of it.
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