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Bad Habits
5.9,
Trad, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
FA:
Brad Young,
dean fleming, and Matt Koskela, May 2008
California
> Sonora Pass Hig…
> Table Mountain
> Grotto
Access Issue: Agreement in place at Gold Wall. Respect signs and private property owners near the crags.
Details
Update: April, 16 2021.
Gold Wall (which is privately owned) is open to climbing.
However climbers must follow the owners rules!
Rules for climbing at Gold Wall:
-No yelling/loud noises
-No fires of any kind
-No camping
-No trash/bathroom
-No publishing routes in books or online (ie Don't post on Mountain Project or other online sites)
-No disclosing exact location in books/online
The land owners continue to have full rights over the Gold Wall and the right to close access at any time if activities occur that make them uncomfortable. We are very thankful to the land owners who recognize the importance of Gold Wall to the climbing community and generously have allowed rock climbing to occur on their property.
Access Fund is working with Tuolumne County, Tuolumne County Land Trust, private landowners and the US Bureau of Reclamation to come up with a solution to the Shell Rd parking issue. Please be mindful of where you park when going to Table Mountain, do not block private driveways or vehicle access on Shell Rd and remember this area is a high fire danger zone so use abundance of caution!
It is up to us as a climbing community to ensure the owner’s rules are upheld so please if you see something say something!!
Description
Climb 3 cracks to the right of Go with the Flow that goes straight up a thin seam. Safe protection is available if you're competent placing nuts.
The direct start to the ledge is easy but without pro. You could likely do alternate starts on the cracks to the left or right.
Small edges bring you to bomber fingerlocks higher up, which seemed like the crux. Take care in the middle as the rock on the right is very hollow.
Location
Thin seam below the rightmost anchor in the Grotto. Anchors are new stainless Fixe shuts.
Protection
Small nuts (brass and alloy offsets worked great) and cams up to 0.4 C4
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Twain Harte, CA
At least three of us have known about it since May, 2008, when we did the first ascent ;)
Interesting though that, like us, you called it 5.9. We gave it one out of three stars and you gave it two out of four. Those seem to match up fairly well. Great minds etc? Dec 12, 2020
San Mateo, CA
Is this in the Sonora Pass guidebook? I've been meaning to buy a copy. Dec 12, 2020
Twain Harte, CA
Yes, it is in the guidebook. Pages 44 and 45, route "T." Feel free to edit information about this route into your post if/when you do get the book.
And, yes, I am not cooperating here on purpose. I've decided that Mountain Project's asinine choice between "trad" and "sport" routes, leaving no room for all bolt protected face climbs that are TRADITIONALLY BOLTED, and not sport bolted (there's a big difference) irks me. It's stupid and deliberately inaccurate.
None of that applies to you, and none of that applies to this route. But they can go to hell (in a loving way, of course) for their stupid inflexibility. Dec 12, 2020