Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | FA - Coleman "Troutman" Blakeslee, Nate Sydnor and Joe Stern FFA - Nate Sydnor |
Page Views: | 1,265 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on Dec 8, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Hayden Kennedy was one of the most righteous dudes I’ve ever known. He was wise beyond his years, about as kind and real of a person as you’d ever meet, and along with his raw good will he had an effortless, preternatural talent for climbing. This route was established as an honor to him. His death was for me the first glimpse of its kind of a certain visceral mortality we all face. And although the Romeo and Juliet tale of Hayden and Inge is a uniquely tragic one, as life and time moved on I saw that that loss somehow brought myself and some of my dearest friends closer together. It helped me to realize certain importances, and see with greater clarity certain trivialities. Every new route to me is a story, written in the experiences that lead to its fruition. A bit of that story unfolds below.
Credit for the vision of this route goes to Coleman “Troutman” Blakeslee, one of Hayden’s best friends and one of my most cherished brothers. Coleman was an inspiration to Hayden, as he still is to many of us who are fortunate enough to know him as a great friend. It was Coleman’s suggestion to investigate the line as a potential tribute, and he bravely aided it in the blazing heat for the first ascent, leaving a cam nest to TR off of. I went up and pulled the trigger to drill the anchor, discovering in the process a difficult and intriguing free climb. I likely ended up getting the first free ascent because Coleman's finger tips wouldn’t quite fit for the crux, and because the beguiling nature of the line luckily eluded others for the nearly 3 years it took for me to complete it. For so many years this line sat front and center at Battle. Difficult free climbs were established just a stone’s throw away, yet for some reason it was never done. If such a thing could be considered, I would think of this as my magnum opus in Indian Creek, the closing of a chapter of new routing in an area I love so much. Hayden likely would have styled it first or second try.
Knowhere is a harbor at the very edge of what is known in Marvel comics as the multiverse. Much like an electron, it does not hold one physical, identifiable location and thus cannot be observed as such. It is a dimensional crossroads that holds particular significance within the time-space continuum, and the limits of language make it difficult to describe. Multiple significant Marvel plots play out here, in the severed head of a once-mighty Celestial; one of the all-powerful beings who essentially watch over and reside at the very foundation of the multiverse. I clearly remember reading my brother's Thor comics as a little kid and seeing the depiction of the Celestials. The scale with which they were drawn broadened my understanding of the vastness of space and the colossal nature of the universe. Thanos also famously steals the Reality Stone here from Taneleer Tivan, The Collector, proclaiming in the process that “…reality is often disappointing. That is, it was. Now, reality can be whatever I want.” So it is with this authorship. The direct reference to Knowhere with relation to this route's name, specifically, is that this crack sat in some sort of vortex for so many years. Right at the top of the trail but seemingly invisible, it was never done. Coleman and Joe and I showed up at the “right” time, with the “right” mentality, and thus were granted access.
I’ve also upgraded the route from the original grade of 12+ to 13-. This is sort of bait for suitors so that folks will come climb it, lured by the potential tick of a route with a coveted grade. I think it’s one of the hardest climbs I’ve ever done, and it felt like 12+ effort when I did it, but first ascents have a process that is unique. Finding out if it’s even possible presents a challenge all its own. Of course it doesn’t really matter how hard it is. It’s an amazing challenge with a great deal of meaning to me. I’m interested to see how it shakes out once repeated.
Respect.
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