Type: Boulder, 7 ft (2 m)
FA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 384 total · 8/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Dec 7, 2020
Admins: Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

This one may be an all-time low. It may not get much tighter than this folks. If you thought sliding under the overhang for "Dab Control" was a bit much, you're going to be awestruck when you see this one.

Sit-start matched on a nice aesthetic zig-zagging rail on the steep 60 degree overhang. Figure out a way the positioning to pull on and make a hard unwind to a good hold found on the left arete/ lip of the roof. Stay tight and match the lip before continuing up a few more moves to top out at the apex where another arete comes down to meet the lip.

This problem suffers from a large slab behind it, but if that slab wasn't there, this climb would have had potential for one of the best that the Black Jacks have to offer.

Location Suggest change

Finding and accessing this problem is tricky by itself. The easiest way to find this problem is to approach it from the Entrance Boulders. Find "Bobby's Problem" spin around and find the overhang with the climb "Mr. Crawley". This is a short overhang that faces the trail and is about 15-20 yards above "Bobby's Problem".

Now, from "Mr. Crawley", climb up the jugs to stand on top. Once standing on top, one will see that The Rift Boulder is cleanly sheared at this location. There is a steep overhang that juts out over a slab, both the slab and the overhang are at nearly 60 degrees.
"Vaseline" climbs the sloping rail of this steep overhang.

Protection Suggest change

No pads or a blubber pad.

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