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Journey to Pitar

5.11d, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Greg Olsen, Darryl Cramer
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lower Town Wall > (C) Main Wall, left side

Description

Start as for the last pitch of TPMV, clipping the first bolt on that pitch, but then breaking right past 3 more bolts on hard, knobby, sometimes runout slab. Eventually join up with the top part of Japanese Gardens P4 to reach the chains. 

Location

Start from the belay on Stiff Kittens, trending up and right till joining with P4 of Japanese Gardens.

Protection

4 bolts + some small/finger sized gear for the top of JG.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A slightly distorted picture of the last pitches of the LTW (left side). Help me out with route names!
[Hide Photo] A slightly distorted picture of the last pitches of the LTW (left side). Help me out with route names!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

IJMayer
Guemes Island, WA
[Hide Comment] Tough slab! Easy enough to play around on from the P4 anchors of JG. Mar 28, 2021
blakeherrington
[Hide Comment] This feels about 4 grades technically harder than the final pitch of J gardens and would be a much more bold lead.
If anyone has redpointed this pitch in the past 10 years, I'd be surprised. Apr 23, 2021
Darryl Cramer
Seattle
[Hide Comment] This route has a very short crux and like Newest Industry wouldn’t be a good choice on a hot day. IIRC, the crux is smearing on a typical Index knob with the right foot.The winter Greg and I were spending a lot of time on the Shield we were pretty much living hand-to-mouth. Between us we only had one pair of shoes. Unfortunately they were his, so after he reached the belay he had to lower his shoes to me and I somehow put them on. They were such a tight fit that there was no need to tighten the laces.

Our main rope had a break in the sheath but due to the shortness of most Index pitches we were still able to climb on it. Raps were difficult as the sheath would bunch up and slide down the core. The parking lot was usually empty so we’d pull the sheath back over the core there. After witnessing this procedure a Good Samaritan took pity on us and left a couple of ropes on Greg’s doorstep. May 28, 2021
Stig gles
Index
[Hide Comment] Gets 12a in the Cummins guide but like Blake said, it may feel harder than that. Aug 7, 2024