PRINT: Rock Climb Hit the Tree and that Would Blow, Willamette Valley

Hit the Tree and that Would Blow

5.13a, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: JD Merritt 12/2020
Oregon > Willamette Valley > Lookout Point > R.I.P.

Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate. Details

Private land info on the sign at the gate (please see photo). Follow all rules on the sign to ensure future access.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.

If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.

Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.

Or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Tree

The original finish to Gilded Fear. Requires focus all the way to the last move.

Pull the crux of Gilded Fear to the "pretend-a-rest". Upon leaving the rest the sequence immediately differs. Climb up and slightly right where Gilded Fear escapes left and gains the lip early. Clip the right of the two side-by-side bolts. Higher up the next keeps you away from the tree. Sustained climbing, unique holds, cool pocket stabs, bad feet, with a tension/precision redpoint crux right at the chains.

The grade assumes you climb to the jugs at the lip just past the anchor, since the last two or three moves are pretty real (as opposed to extending the anchor or making a reachy clip). Feels a notch harder than Gilded Fear, actually starts to demand a bit of power endurance at the end, you're not just bouldering here.

Regarding the tree, after punting off the last move a few times, with the anchors in front of my face, I can assure you that the fall is safe. Give an attentive belay though. If you had a bad belay or blew a clip, you'd at least be glad to have a shirt on your back.

If you plan on skipping clips it may be prudent to pad the tree. And yes, the tree is "off", unless you're into 5.9+ chimneys.

Location

Behind the big tree at the right end of the RIP. Last two bolts are right of Gilded.

Protection

6 glue-in bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Permadraws.

Stick clip to 2nd or 3rd is acceptable style.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Overview photo of the Lower RIP. Beta in comment.

The redpoint crux of Hit the tree, on the linkup, with the tree padded to skip clips. Safety first. With permission from John Sullivan.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Micah Elconin
Eugene, OR

5.13a

Really enjoyed this one. Tricky power/tech crux low combined with brilliant pocket pulling up top. And yes, a surprising amount of pump management for a 35 ft route.

Can also confirm that the tree is not an issue up high. However, it can be an issue in the lower crux (shared with Gilded Fear). If you choose one of the more dynamic approaches, make sure you have an attentive belay and keep your feet in front of the rope. Mar 18, 2021