Hit the Tree and that Would Blow
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | JD Merritt 12/2020 |
Page Views: | 1,411 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | JD Merritt on Dec 3, 2020 |
Admins: | Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.
If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.
Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.
Or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Tree
The original finish to Gilded Fear. Requires focus all the way to the last move.
Pull the crux of Gilded Fear to the "pretend-a-rest". Upon leaving the rest the sequence immediately differs. Climb up and slightly right where Gilded Fear escapes left and gains the lip early. Clip the right of the two side-by-side bolts. Higher up the next keeps you away from the tree. Sustained climbing, unique holds, cool pocket stabs, bad feet, with a tension/precision redpoint crux right at the chains.
The grade assumes you climb to the jugs at the lip just past the anchor, since the last two or three moves are pretty real (as opposed to extending the anchor or making a reachy clip). Feels a notch harder than Gilded Fear, actually starts to demand a bit of power endurance at the end, you're not just bouldering here.
Regarding the tree, after punting off the last move a few times, with the anchors in front of my face, I can assure you that the fall is safe. Give an attentive belay though. If you had a bad belay or blew a clip, you'd at least be glad to have a shirt on your back.
If you plan on skipping clips it may be prudent to pad the tree. And yes, the tree is "off", unless you're into 5.9+ chimneys.
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