Type: Sport, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: JD Merritt 12/2020
Page Views: 1,411 total · 29/month
Shared By: JD Merritt on Dec 3, 2020
Admins: Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


4 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate. DetailsDrop down

Or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Tree Suggest change

The original finish to Gilded Fear. Requires focus all the way to the last move.

Pull the crux of Gilded Fear to the "pretend-a-rest". Upon leaving the rest the sequence immediately differs. Climb up and slightly right where Gilded Fear escapes left and gains the lip early. Clip the right of the two side-by-side bolts. Higher up the next keeps you away from the tree. Sustained climbing, unique holds, cool pocket stabs, bad feet, with a tension/precision redpoint crux right at the chains.

The grade assumes you climb to the jugs at the lip just past the anchor, since the last two or three moves are pretty real (as opposed to extending the anchor or making a reachy clip). Feels a notch harder than Gilded Fear, actually starts to demand a bit of power endurance at the end, you're not just bouldering here. 

Regarding the tree, after punting off the last move a few times, with the anchors in front of my face, I can assure you that the fall is safe. Give an attentive belay though. If you had a bad belay or blew a clip, you'd at least be glad to have a shirt on your back. 

If you plan on skipping clips it may be prudent to pad the tree. And yes, the tree is "off", unless you're into 5.9+ chimneys.

Location Suggest change

Behind the big tree at the right end of the RIP. Last two bolts are right of Gilded.

Protection Suggest change

6 glue-in bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Permadraws.

Stick clip to 2nd or 3rd is acceptable style. 

Photos

loading