All Locations > California > San Francisco B… > S Bay Area > Castle Rock Area > Muffins > Lower Muffins

Left Chimney

Name: Left Chimney
Rating: 2.3

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Lower Muffins

L › R R › L A › Z

	Burnt Muffin S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Corn Muffin S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Jelly Roll S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Left Chimney TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Right Chimney (a.k.a The Helmet Clamp) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sticky Green Traverse, The V6 7A

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Type:	TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	790 total · 16/month
Shared By:	Riley Waite on Nov 27, 2020
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

This is a fun chimney climb with its crux at the exit towards anchor. We've had fun with several unique solutions to this exit! See what you come up with.

Protection

Set TR anchor at the top of the center rock. You can access anchor from rear by following trail to the right (West) around and up. Be sure to properly equalize, since your climber will be pulling slightly left towards the chimney.