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Routes in The Egg
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Bushmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chris Minneci Memorial Route S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cracked Egg T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
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DDT T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eat the Meek S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Garbage Chutes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Go Van Gogh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Groovin' T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Huevos Rancheros T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Jesus or Jeopardy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leggo My Eggo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lowe Blow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Old Peculier T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Runnel Chunnel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scrambled Eggs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Variety Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | FRA: Bryce Perkins, Dallen Ward, November 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,166 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | zoso on Nov 17, 2020 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
DDT (dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane) was a synthetic insecticide developed in the 1940s. It was eventually banned for a number of reasons, of which one was how it thinned and weakened egg shells. This led to dwindling bird populations. The name is a clue to the gear required.
Likely done eons ago, this is a long pitch on great rock. DDT lays itself on a mellow slab/dihedral trending up and left . Slightly less steep than Cracked Egg [winky winky].
Location
A mere 30 seconds past the start to the scramble to the Egg proper, you'll find a tiny belay spot. This is also the start to Cracked Egg.
There are 2 ways to approach this:
1. Annoying way: continue up The Egg trail where it degrades to grovel and bird seed and shimmy over from the left.
2. Preferred: walk up a chimney of sorts with clipped bushes right to the belay. See pic.
Protection
Up to 0.3 camalot at most. Consider a double rack of micro cams and plenty of small nuts. I even placed a #2 Lowe ball but you'll have plenty of good gear (albeit small) if you don't have such.
Rap from chains with a 70m to get you back to the start. It would be easy to roost right past the end of your rope when rapping to the belay, so tie knots in those ends!
Alternatively, rap with a 60m climbers left and scree-ski down to the start.
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