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Papillon
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in f. La grotte
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Agréable Surprise T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Le déserteur T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Papillon T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 379 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Louis-thomas Schreiber on Nov 10, 2020 |
| Admins: | Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
Access Issue: This cliff is under the liability insurance of the FQME. Also watch for peregrine falcon closures.
Details
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca
alpineclubofcanada.ca
For falcon closures, look at the information kiosk in the parking lot.
Description
Pass the big boulder by the right, climb the black wall behind it to reach the "chimney" on the left. Follow the chimney until you can clip the first bolt ON THE FACE (the bolt lower in the roof is not part of this route). Follow the four bolts on the face, you will get to an anchor with chains above the face, on a big ledge, to the left. You can skip this anchor and go all the way to the top, the second pitch is short and easy: to the right of the anchor, sport a small cedar, pass it by the right and go straight up that face to a small roof that is splitted by hand size crack. After the roof keep going up, clip the last bolt and find the belay straight up.
Descent: you can reach the ground in one rappel with a single 70m rope (60 m wont make it, but it would be managable with easy downclimb).
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