America's Most Blunted

High in the gulley's in the monument lurks Smith Rocks hardest multi-pitch. America's Most Blunted earns its name as you climb a blunt arete hundreds of feet off the deck on the 3rd pitch at 13c+. The exposure mixed with crux moves above bolts will be a mental barrier for most, but the sheer beauty and aesthetics of this arete will surely keep the qualified motivated!

P1: 5.10***  An initial steep move on crappy rock (.10-) leads to a good stance at 25 ft. A body length higher the rock changes color and the action and quality ramp up. Sustained climbing on good holds leads to a crux over a roof. 11 bolts. 90 feet.

P2. 5.10-***  Step left off the anchor and follow good face holds up the middle of the face to a final, solid, layback off-width. Step left to an anchor at the top of a flake system. 8 bolts. 70 feet. This pitch easily links with pitch 1.

P3 5.13+ **** This ultra classic arete is the obvious prize of Anglins Buttress. The hard climbing emerges immediately at the 2nd bolt off the anchor. Tackle 3 cruxes as the blunt arete steepens to a final roof crux, where the nerves and pump begin to be crippling. The anchors lie just above. Cant remember the amount of bolts, but 10 should suffice.

P4. 5.7* Follow extensive cleaning scars to the top. 6 bolts.

Descent: Four rappels with a single 70 meter rope. Or scramble off the back.

Hike/scramble up the gully between the Monument and Anglin's Buttress for five minutes. At the end of the rock stairs, look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt, leading to the main ledge.