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> (g) Southern Crags
> (f) Raven's Castle
Arctic Raven
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 5
votes
Routes in (f) Raven's Castle
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Trout Fishing in America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squirrel and the nuthatch, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dragons play S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Castle Logic S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Robbing the Castle S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Raven and the Bear, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Arctic Raven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vanishing Point S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fire in the Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Surface of the Sun S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Into the Frying Pan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Black Bird S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Trad-jectory S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Guardian of the Castle S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Adam Tutte, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 633 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Rhys Beaudry on Nov 3, 2020 |
| Admins: | Sean Godwin, John L, Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
Climb the easy (4th to low 5th) slab ramp shared with "The Raven and the Bear" to the steepest part of the wall/small bulge. Pull a slightly awkward but not altogether difficult sequence to gain the face. All that's left is stellar face climbing to the chains! Generally thin and some tricky side pull/traversing sequences.
After the first rightward traverse on the face there is a bolt on your right. Stay on the left bolt line, this aforementioned bolt heads for a 12b exit (Juno Beach).
Draw beta- long draw the first bolt on the bulge (first bolt after the slab). It helps if there's a draw on the first bolt on the face, then you can high clip and avoid a bit of nasty fall potential.
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