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On the Edge of Oblivion
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British X
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in The Spider's Web
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Arachne T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Bird's Nest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Black Widow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cackling of the Hens T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Captain Hooks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dacker Cracker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Drop, Fly, or Die T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Esthesia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Eternity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Grand Hysteria T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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It's Only Entertainment T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Je Me Souviens T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R |
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Jelly Arms T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Key, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lycanthropia T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Lycanthropia, Her Way T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mr. Rogers' Neighborhood T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Normal Route T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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On the Edge of Oblivion T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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On The Loose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Only the Good Die Young T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Peace In Our Climbs T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Pumpernickel T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Retrograde T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Romano's Route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Skeleton Key T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slim Pickins T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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TR T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Wheelin' N' Dealin' T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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White Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Knight Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wrong again, Chalkbreath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yvonne T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zabba T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | FA on TR: Patrick Purcell and Jeff Edwards '92, FFA: Jon Clark 10/31/20 |
| Page Views: | 1,952 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Clark on Nov 2, 2020 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
On the Edge of Oblivion climbs the poorly protected arete and face between Esthesia and Slim Pickins. It features sustained, technical, and insecure climbing with ledge fall potential from 45 feet at the crux. There is also ledge fall potential on 5.11 terrain. It was first climbed on toprope in 1992 by Patrick Purcell and Jeff Edwards.
Start on the slab as for Slim Pickins. Traverse left to the arete, climb it and the face to a good hold. Trend up and right, eventually joining Slim Pickins for eight feet. Head back left to the arete which leads to an overlap (crux). Surmount this and continue to a larger overlap. Climb through the final overlap and up the face to the top.
Video of the FFA
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