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Temperance

5.13d, Sport, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson 2016
International > N America > Canada > New Brunswick > Utopia > Utopia Wall

Description

Climb the first two thirds of Cat in the Hat until you reach the perma-drawed flaring chimney on your right. Make tough moves to establish yourself in the chimney and begin the grueling process of shuffling up the corner on smear feet. At the end of the chimney, reach for a jug and recover for the slightly overhanging 5.12 face. Top it off with a mantle guarding the chains.

Location

Take a right towards the flaring chimney two thirds of the way up Cat and the Hat.

Protection

16 bolts (mainly perma-drawed), bolted anchor

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Temperance 5.13d
[Hide Photo] Temperance 5.13d

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Francois Cote
Fredericton, NB
  5.13d
[Hide Comment] This route is mega. 5.12+ chimney to 5.12+ overhanging face. Despite being two completely different styles, it's tough to have the energy left for the face. Linking it all together is definitely in the 5.13+ range. Awesome and sustained pitch! Oct 28, 2021