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Teasing Hank

5.11c/d, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Matt Solomon, Oct 2020
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (7) The Monument > Hank Collins Memorial…
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Description

Teasing Hank is link-up of the first 10 bolts of A Big Tease into the last 4 bolts of the Hank Collins Memorial Route. 

Start as for A Big Tease working up the moderate face to the bottom of the crack. Enter into the crack of good holds and finger locks, clip the long fixed draw, and make the committing run to the jug over the roof. After clipping the second fixed draw, follow the diagonal traverse left to a good rest at bolt 10. (Extending this draw and the first you come to as you traverse left from here into the other route is very helpful.)

After clipping bolt 10 on A Big Tease, move left then up clipping the last 4 bolts and anchors of the Hank Collins Memorial Route. Expect more committing climbing, generous bolt spacing, and a few cruxy moves moving past the last bolt.

Location

Start is the same as for A Big Tease

Protection

14 Bolts (two are fixed) with steel clippable anchors on top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Hatzai
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Rad to see a new route up on this wall! Congrats Matt on the send!!! Nov 3, 2020
Matt Solomon
Redmond, OR
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] There is only a few feet of new climbing, and I am grateful for all the work of those who 'actually established the two routes, but I think it's a good line for those who want to get high on the wall without having to cllimb 5.12. Nov 3, 2020