PRINT: Rock Climb Box Elder Cling, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Box Elder Cling

5.13b, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Brent Barghahn, October 2020
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Green Adjective Gully

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

The prow between the Trinities and Mother of Pearl, listed as project #18 in the Granite Guide. Engaging moderate climbing up some right leaning flakes brings you to a stance on a good ledge. The hard climbing begins here with underclinging straight right, and then a single especially hard move upwards. This maneuver involves a full span dead point off bad feet to a tips lock (may be easier than this grade for taller climbers!). Continue from here straight up the rarely-done flake laybacking second pitch of Trinity Right to finish at the Mother of Pearl anchor.

The line zig zags a good bit - I managed rope drag by back cleaning the crux draw once established onto the post crux jug.

Location

Look for a right trending flake straight below Trinity Right.

Protection

Single rack 0.2-1, many draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Halfway up the line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

tenesmus

Looking at the photos from both climbs and imagining how that crux plays out: A desperate "deadpoint into a tips lock", then fighting the body tension to avoid having your feet cut as soon as you do catch it, then smearing up into a layaway position.
Guessing this must be really fun, once you lock it all in!
Also guessing there is serious potential for 1st knuckle grindage until you do? Oct 14, 2020