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Smuggler's Cove

5.13-, Trad, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Randy Baum
Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions DetailsDrop down

Description

Begin with a 5.11 intro of face climbing that leads into a shallow corner.  Once past the dihedral and on the headwall, navigate a sustained crux with small edges and tricky movement (V8 or so).  After some 5.10 climbing, one final crux awaits.  While not straightforward, the finish only clocks in at V3 or so.  Smuggler’s Cove the route draws its name from the deservedly famous San Francisco tiki bar of the same name.  If you enjoy mixing drinks, the cocktail book, which is also called Smugglers Cove, demands a seat at the home bar.   Send this route and once home be sure to dial up a Zombie or Jungle Bird. Yum!

Location

10ft climber’s right (north) of Jim’s Crack.  Belay from the lowest ledge before 4th class terrain begins; this is about 50 ft above the water.  

Protection

Top rope anchor takes nuts and cams from micro to #2 C4.

Climb itself has 8 bolts. Supplement with two 0.4 cams and one 0.3. Be sure to take 3-4 standard length runners. Locate the dihedral at mid-height. Extending the bolts below helps with rope drag; the same can be said for the piece you place in the dihedral itself.

Belay ledge takes cams 0.2-0.4. Route overhangs 15 or so feet. Clip into bolts #4 and lower, otherwise you might find yourself hanging in space and unable to reach the belay. You’d then have to lower to the ground then fourth class up chossy ledges to get back to the belay. This method is not advised. The route is only a hundred yards or so from the access gully. You can skip the rappel and approach via that path, if you so choose.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Smuggler's Cove 5.13- top rope / top anchor location. Place your masterpoint right off the tip of the arete in the center of the photo. Jim's Crack 5.10 anchors also set up in the general area.
[Hide Photo] Smuggler's Cove 5.13- top rope / top anchor location. Place your masterpoint right off the tip of the arete in the center of the photo. Jim's Crack 5.10 anchors also set up in the general area.
Smuggler's Cove 5.13- crux.
[Hide Photo] Smuggler's Cove 5.13- crux.
Smuggler's Cove 5.13- last 30 or so feet. Tricky but not strenuous.
[Hide Photo] Smuggler's Cove 5.13- last 30 or so feet. Tricky but not strenuous.
Smuggler's Cove 5.13- ascends the overhanging arete in the center right of the photo. If you zoom in, you can see the top rope anchor and the rope.
[Hide Photo] Smuggler's Cove 5.13- ascends the overhanging arete in the center right of the photo. If you zoom in, you can see the top rope anchor and the rope.