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Routes in Palisade Head
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Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13 |
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Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fool's Progress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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A Hard Rain TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Quartz crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lightweaver S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Echoes Arete S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Northern Exposure (***CLOSED***) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Randy Baum |
| Page Views: | 918 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | randy baum on Oct 8, 2020 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions
Details
For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).
Description
Begin with a 5.11 intro of face climbing that leads into a shallow corner. Once past the dihedral and on the headwall, navigate a sustained crux with small edges and tricky movement (V8 or so). After some 5.10 climbing, one final crux awaits. While not straightforward, the finish only clocks in at V3 or so. Smuggler’s Cove the route draws its name from the deservedly famous San Francisco tiki bar of the same name. If you enjoy mixing drinks, the cocktail book, which is also called Smugglers Cove, demands a seat at the home bar. Send this route and once home be sure to dial up a Zombie or Jungle Bird. Yum!
Location
10ft climber’s right (north) of Jim’s Crack. Belay from the lowest ledge before 4th class terrain begins; this is about 50 ft above the water.
Protection
Top rope anchor takes nuts and cams from micro to #2 C4.
Climb itself has 8 bolts. Supplement with two 0.4 cams and one 0.3. Be sure to take 3-4 standard length runners. Locate the dihedral at mid-height. Extending the bolts below helps with rope drag; the same can be said for the piece you place in the dihedral itself.
Belay ledge takes cams 0.2-0.4. Route overhangs 15 or so feet. Clip into bolts #4 and lower, otherwise you might find yourself hanging in space and unable to reach the belay. You’d then have to lower to the ground then fourth class up chossy ledges to get back to the belay. This method is not advised. The route is only a hundred yards or so from the access gully. You can skip the rappel and approach via that path, if you so choose.
Climb itself has 8 bolts. Supplement with two 0.4 cams and one 0.3. Be sure to take 3-4 standard length runners. Locate the dihedral at mid-height. Extending the bolts below helps with rope drag; the same can be said for the piece you place in the dihedral itself.
Belay ledge takes cams 0.2-0.4. Route overhangs 15 or so feet. Clip into bolts #4 and lower, otherwise you might find yourself hanging in space and unable to reach the belay. You’d then have to lower to the ground then fourth class up chossy ledges to get back to the belay. This method is not advised. The route is only a hundred yards or so from the access gully. You can skip the rappel and approach via that path, if you so choose.
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