All Locations > Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head

Smuggler's Cove

Name: Smuggler's Cove
Rating: 3.0

5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British

Routes in Palisade Head

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Feathery Tong T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	A mind Forever Voyaging A3+ PG13
	A Sinner’s Last Gift T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	A Twister With Teeth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Aching Alms T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Aching Light T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Amphitrite [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Arms Race T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Avoidance 2x TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Bluebells T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bridges over Troubled Water T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bugaboo Project T 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Choice of a New Generation, The T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Christmas Tree Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Danger High Voltage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Double Breasted Anchor T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Driving in Duluth T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	Ecclesiastes T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Echoes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Echoes Arete S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ex Nihilo T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Faith T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Fall of Ascomycetes, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flight School T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Fool's Progress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Gales of November, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Genetically Correct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Great Bird Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grunge Off (aka Goliath's Finger Crack) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Happy Happy, Joy Joy S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Hidden Agenda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Hidden Treasure T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Hyper Light Drifter S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	I Could've Been a Contender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Iron Maiden T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jim's Crack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Johnny Tsunami T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Keystone T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	KGB T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Killing Me Softly T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Laceration Jam T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Lapidarian T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Lightweaver S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Long Distance Commute T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mabley's Traverse T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Mack the Knife T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mann Act T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
	Metamorphosis, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mr. Lean T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Night Vision T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	No Sugar, No Baby T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	North Tower, South Face T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
	Northern Exposure (*CLOSED*) T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Old Men in Tight Pants TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Palisaid T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Pamplemoose T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Phantom Corner T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Phantom Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Poseidon Adventure T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Praise the Many Seraphim T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Presents T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pussyfoot T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Quartz crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Queen of Venus T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Quetico Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Rapprochement T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rejuvenation S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Scars and Tripes Forever T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smear Job T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Smuggler's Cove T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Socket Wrench T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Soli Deo Gloria T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sound of One Hand Jamming, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Spruce Tips T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Squab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sudden Impact TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sunday Excursion T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Sunny and Sheer T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Superior Arete T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Superior Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Swimsuits and Harnesses T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Swizzlestick Legs T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Urge to Mate T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Warrior's Last Dance On Earth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Water Babies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wise Guys T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Withering Heights T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Yamadori [CURRENTLY CLOSED] T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Yellow Feather T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Type:	Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA:	Randy Baum
Page Views:	887 total · 17/month
Shared By:	randy baum on Oct 8, 2020
Admins:	K Ice, Kris Gorny Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

For most current closures please see the park's Visitor Alert message here: dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks…

When in doubt, you can inquire about the closures at the State Park Visitor Center (5702 Highway 61, Silver Bay), via email (tettegouche.statepark@state.mn.us), or by phone (218-353-8800).

Description

Begin with a 5.11 intro of face climbing that leads into a shallow corner. Once past the dihedral and on the headwall, navigate a sustained crux with small edges and tricky movement (V8 or so). After some 5.10 climbing, one final crux awaits. While not straightforward, the finish only clocks in at V3 or so. Smuggler’s Cove the route draws its name from the deservedly famous San Francisco tiki bar of the same name. If you enjoy mixing drinks, the cocktail book, which is also called Smugglers Cove, demands a seat at the home bar. Send this route and once home be sure to dial up a Zombie or Jungle Bird. Yum!

Location

10ft climber’s right (north) of Jim’s Crack. Belay from the lowest ledge before 4th class terrain begins; this is about 50 ft above the water.

Protection

Top rope anchor takes nuts and cams from micro to #2 C4.

Climb itself has 8 bolts. Supplement with two 0.4 cams and one 0.3. Be sure to take 3-4 standard length runners. Locate the dihedral at mid-height. Extending the bolts below helps with rope drag; the same can be said for the piece you place in the dihedral itself.

Belay ledge takes cams 0.2-0.4. Route overhangs 15 or so feet. Clip into bolts #4 and lower, otherwise you might find yourself hanging in space and unable to reach the belay. You’d then have to lower to the ground then fourth class up chossy ledges to get back to the belay. This method is not advised. The route is only a hundred yards or so from the access gully. You can skip the rappel and approach via that path, if you so choose.