Pleasure Cruise

This route was put up with the "new to the multi-pitch game" climber in mind. It starts with a modest climbing grade that increases the more pitches you climb. It allows one to work on route finding, gear placement, and rope management while keeping communication challenges and risks minimized by offering a mix of bolts and gear on almost every pitch; it's an enjoyable outing with a lower overall commitment. All anchors are bolted but once the route is started, it is recommended to continue to the top to (i) minimize jam-ups between climbers ascending and descending; (ii) reduce the risk of accidental rock falls from pulling ropes. This has become more of an issue, especially on weekends, as the route has gained popularity. Once you reach pitch 6, retreat becomes even more involved, e.g., traversing rappels so definitely plan on topping out from here. The route eventually arrives at the hiker's trail near the summit of the formation. Note that P6 and P7 are relatively new (open August 2023) and so climb those pitches with the appreciation that Beacon Rock is a dynamic environment and that some loose rock is to be expected.

P1 5.7 30m - start right of a big roof on easy terrain and climb up and left towards the crack behind the roof. Squeeze thru the passage to get on top of the roof, a 1.0 or 2.0 Camalot protects well here. Once on top of the roof move left to the arete, clip the old bolt and/or place a cam above it. Step on the block and move up a body length, a small 0.2 cam can be used in a face slit if you aren't feeling bold. Follow the arete on big holds passing a couple more bolts to a large ledge with a big tree and anchors. Note that the grungy corner to the right that is filled with dirt and vegetation has been climbed and is called the Alpine Route, 5.6; probably not worth the effort unless that's your thing.

P2 5.7 30m - This pitch may be 30m vertically, but as it wanders quite a bit, the climber will use well more than 30m of rope. Climb straight up from the belay passing a bolt and plenty of good gear options. At approximately 10m (30ft) up, move up and into a shallow corner. Step up and traverse right on a ledge to easier ground passing 2 more bolts to a big ledge. At the big ledge clip the fourth bolt on the route using a long sling to reduce rope drag. Then traverse up and left passing one more bolt to reach the anchor, which is out of sight until you're within a few feet of it.

P3 5.8 25m - from the belay step right and head up clipping a bolt. Go to the back of the large ledge and climb the short crack using the block of Damocles. You’ll have to pull and stand on that thing; I have reefed on it to no avail but your mileage may vary. If you protect the crack, it is recommended to extend the sling before continuing to alleviate rope drag or back clean your piece and use the placement directly above the crack that can be made from standing on the ledge. Move left until about 1/2 way along the sloping ledge, find good holds to begin ascending a slab, passing 3 bolts to yet another big ledge. The last part of this pitch ascends the short face above a ramp on the right side of the ledge. Both the ramp and the face can be protected with gear (see picture section) and the face has a thin crack pod that can be protected (blue Totem or yellow Metolius cam). It might perplex some but the short face is no harder than the given grade once you figure out the movement.

P4 5.9 22m - ascend a well-featured slab past a bolt to another ledge 20' up, then follow the obvious crack system up to a slight overhang with plenty of gear placements. Stem through the shallow overhang (crux, save your #4 cam for here) and make a committing step to a layback. Find your next bolt here, it's a golden child, and continue to lay back the big flake on positive holds to exit beside the big snag. This pitch can be combined with with P3 if rope drag is well managed but communication won't be ideal.

P5 5.8 24m - climb a short, widening, hand-to-fist sized crack (#4 useful again) and exit to the right of the tree. Pass a bolt as you step right to follow a thin discontinuous crack up the low-angled slab. The scrubbed rock should provide a clue as to where the route goes. At the top of the slab ignore the anchors on the left (these are the Steamboat Captain's Dream (SCD) P6 anchors). Instead, head right at the large fir tree and climb a short clean corner, pass a bolt, and find a set of anchors on a comfy ledge; manage your rope drag through this traverse.

P6 5.9 28m - from the belay climb up coarse rock passing a bolt (extend your draw) and traverse right past another bolt towards a low-angle corner. Climb and stem up the corner passing a few more bolts until you arrive at the base of a larger corner system and the Jenga stack. Ascend the short stack to the base of a steeper wide crack corner system. Climb the steeper terrain (bolts are located on the left side in the good rock) finding good hands and stems to a large ledge and belay station. This pitch has 9 bolts. Note: the belay ledge at the top of this pitch has a jumble of rocks to the left of the anchors. There is no need to go to the left of the belay anchors, avoid this area. 

P7 5.9 27m - start slightly down and right of the belay, climb the short corner and arete passing a bolt on the way to a ledge. Step left across the ledge and to the left side of a fractured buttress (it looks worse than it is). Climb the buttress past two more bolts to exit onto another ledge beside a large fir tree. Continue up behind and left of the large fir tree, ascending an inside corner towards a final bolt. Do not go up and right from the tree, this is loose terrain. Climb cleaner rock just left of the bolt (shared with the Steamboat Captain's Dream route) on the way to the last set of anchors.

P8 4th class 30m - climb up a ramp, over a couple of easy steps, and follow the easy terrain along the ridge crest for 100' to reach the Beacon Rock trail.

All belays are bolted anchors.

Descent
Walk down the hiker's trail.

Rappels can be easily made from P4 with a 60m rope. Rappelling after climbing pitch 5 proper is not recommended as it's a bit more technically involved. Instead, one should continue to the top of the formation. If you wish to climb pitch 5 and rappel, then stop at the SCD anchors to the left of the end of the slab and do not finish the entire fifth pitch of Pleasure Cruise.  

Optional "Pleasure Dream" Link Up
From the top of P5, one can also belay from the Steamboat Captain's Dream P6 anchors, these will be on the left as you finish the slab. You then climb to the top via The Steamboat Captain's Dream following pitches 6, 7, and 8 of that route.

Development History
Topher Dabrowski July 2020; P3-P5 with S.Shostek and Tom Purwins on P4, July 2021; P6-P7 with S.Shostek July 2023

Enter the woods over near the water spigot/picnic table on the north side adjacent to the Discover Pass kiosk. Follow the trail about 200 feet until you see the arching roof, the route starts to the right of the large roof.

Single set of cams 0.2- 3.0 (Camalot sizes)
Optional 4.0
10 extendable alpine draws
Offset nuts

60m rope