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Routes in Otmar's Rock
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Novogodishna (New Year Route) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c R |
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Matka, Desno (Right) Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Veteranski T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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General Buttnaked T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Panchen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Nathan Fry and Martin Stojanovski |
| Page Views: | 345 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fry on Sep 26, 2020 |
| Admins: |
Description
General Buttnaked is a mashup of the best of Veteranski and Matka, Right Variation. Nate and Martin climbed in one morning in Sept 2020 and topped out three feet away from an elderly Macedonian man butt naked and sunning himself on the top of the peak.
P1: Climb the first pitch of Veteranski, up the broken corner to the bolted belay
P2: Climb the second pitch of Veteranski, but instead of cutting right under the orange roof, break left at the roof and belay at a nest of old pins. The belay is awkward but the next pitch is worth it.
P3: Join Matka, Right Variation and climb up a moderate face to the top of the buttress
P4: Rejoin the traditional Veteranski route and climb up and left, over the bulge, up the steep face, and top out on the ridge. Climb up the ridge until you encounter a bolted belay stance or pins (there are several options).
Now, scramble up easy 5th to the top. If you're lucky, you might encounter General Buttnaked at the summit!
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