Type: Sport
FA: JDM 6-4-2020
Page Views: 1,449 total · 29/month
Shared By: JD Merritt on Sep 21, 2020
Admins: Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


4 Opinions
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Warning Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The striking "Axe Blade" arete that begins from the pedestal. All-time movement and position.

Stick clip the high first glue in and start up very easy blocky ground from the far left. Get set up below the arete, enter a punchy but elegant compression boulder, and then hang on for gymnastic, core-draining resistance. No chalking for 12 moves: a satisfying fight. 

Helpful (and safe) to skip the clip at the lip. Especially considering the area and the difficulty, there aren't any injurious or painful holds, no monos, nothing too sharp, just powerful and fun. Not my style at all, would prefer not to even grade the route, were that an option on mp. 

Definitely my favorite route at Lookout, and one of my favorite FAs anywhere.

Location Suggest change

The obvious streaked, laser cut arete at the left side of the Sky Burial wall. Do a V0- in tennis shoes from the right side to gain the spacious belay pedestal and then have your buddy hand up your packs. Def bring a stick clip.

Stays wet longer after rain than most routes here.

Protection Suggest change

6 glueins to shared anchor with the unknown 5.12 to the right (will give it a dedicated anchor when I rebolt the 5.12). Hardware donated by Dan Stringer. You can use the first bolt of the route to the right to protect the belayer.

Photos

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