All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > S Gully

Mushy Peas

Name: Mushy Peas
Rating: 3.5

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in South Gully

L › R R › L A › Z

	Trad Climbing Goof T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Mushy Peas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Opal, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
	Mercy Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Type:	Trad, 8 pitches
FA:	Jason Green, Jesse Redden, 2010
Page Views:	1,113 total · 20/month
Shared By:	K B on Sep 18, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Really great climb that goes at 5.11a for all but a couple easily aid-able moves right at the end.

P1 (10a, 15m): dirty and a little bit spooky climbing up past one bolt to an anchor on a ledge

P2 (10b, 25m, easy link w/ P1, recommended): Up a dirty but not bad corner, and then step out left to a bolted anchor on a ledge.

P3 (11a, ~34m): Wide crack - climb on holds both inside and outside with minimal offwidth technique required. Then up a thin layback to a finger crack with a bolted belay.

P4 (10d, ~34m): Up another wide crack that doesn't need offwidth technique to a easier chimney then a superb hand crack with two cruxes right at the end. Bolted belay on an excellent ledge.

P5 (11a, 10-15m): Climb up the corner for a short while then move out left (try not to miss the exit which is pretty low, don't go up for the bolt) to a cool hand traverse and a gear belay on a ledge.

P6:(11a, ~35m) Steep hand crack with a cruxy bit to a a gigantic jug then easier climbing past a bolted belay, across a dirty ledge to another bolted belay.

P7 (10c, 20m): Really cool flake to dike over to the first bolt, then a couple more to a bolted belay looking up at the final slab.

P8 (11c/ A0, 20m): Bolted slab past a crux then moss to the trees above. Easily aided by pulling on a draw and not very much fun, no anchor so we belayed off of a tree.

Descent: We rapped the route with 2x ropes starting from a tree at the top down toward the anchors at the base of the traverse P7.

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We had a great time on this climb, and it was in the shade for us almost all day early September which was really nice. It probably would not be very nice after rain, and stay damp for a while.

Great climb, needs traffic, get on it!