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Black Pearl
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in (Unsafe bolts!)Memorial Rock
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Short Memory S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pocketed Memory S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Black Pearl S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fire Escape T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Drunkenmaser ~2006? |
| Page Views: | 712 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on Sep 14, 2020 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
BOLTS MAY BE NO GOOD DESPITE APPEARING OK TO THE EYE. STAINLESS BOLTS CAN BECOME BRITTLE IN MARINE ENVIROMENTS AND SNAP UNDER BODY WEIGHT. DO NOT USE THESE BOLTS UNTIL THEY CAN BE UPGRADED TO TITANIUM.
Black slab rising from a boulder on the water's edge.
Edit: The 316 grade 1/2" bolts *appear* to be in great condition, but Jim Thornburg has noted that many seemingly perfect, and non-rusted 316 bolts have snapped easily. He’d like to emphasize that this route now is a time-bomb. I’d be happy to chop and replace these bolts with titanium. I’ve placed 818 glue-in bolts, so I am quite competent to do the task, I’d just prefer for some locals to pitch in for bolts and epoxy. Jim has asked that this page be taken down so people don’t climb the routes, but Mountain Project doesn’t allow us to delete pages. But people are going to see shiny bolts and not have this resource to know that the bolts could be bad. I believe this page is a good way to let people know that the bolts are risky, also a good way to drum up support for rebolting.
-Evan Wisheropp
2 Comments