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Routes in Little Black Cliff
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Arete Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Buttress Climb S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cassius Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Damnifiknow T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Doobious S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Headwaters of Denial S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Identity Crisis S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Mixed 9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Loose and Dubious S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mellow Yellow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Middle 11 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Reanimation S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right 10 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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When The Wives Are Away... S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Z Elephant Boy S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | B. Faulkenburg, July 14, 2020 |
| Page Views: | 549 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Morehouse on Sep 13, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is the line of bolts on the arete crowded in between the Buttress Climb and Z Elephant Boy. The route seems contrived and way too close to the Buttress Climb which overlaps for the first few bolts. It is either a contrived variation or a contrived attempt to establish a hard route right on the arete even as the easier holds just left make you trend that way. Bolt 1 is in an awkward position, and a stickclip is recommended. I'm not sure which anchors - Buttress Climb or Z Elephant Boy were intended as the finish. Both are runout, and both incur rope drag for belaying the second. Speaking of the second, this line puts your second in a crappy situation if they fall.
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