Moon Cycle

A new scenic and aesthetic off-width for the Fairangel Valley, Moon Cycle involves many techniques to ascend, and the strategy can be tailored to how far you want to enter into the widening crack system. 

Begin below the large, singular crack system which gradually widens and creates a crescent moon shape angling to the left. There is a distinct ledge to the lookers right of the crack, 10ft up, which was removed during the cleaning process and is a great resting spot. 

The entire route can be seen from the belay, except the anchors, and widens from 5" to a chimney if that is your strategy. 

Big Cams and Big Bros will only get you to 3/4 on this route before you have to run it out with wide chicken wings and taking a dive further in for security. **

The Approach Pitch (5.5, 65ft) provides access from the base of the Upper Tunnel Vision formation and starts approx. 25ft uphill to a finger crack system to multiple ledges below "Moon Cycle". 

In order to reduce rope drag belaying from above or top, I suggest the belayer extend the master point over the crack system, to avoid the rope going into the chimney and so the belayer can be more in line and in communication. 

**A bolt will be installed for the upper portion of this climb to ensure safety and help rope drag. 

From "Tunnel Vision, 5.11d", continue uphill for 3 minutes, hugging the Tunnel Vision Wall to your right, ascending a faintly worn trail over grass, large boulders and continuing until you reach a distinct granite formation in which you will see large crack systems and "Moon Cycle" rising at the top. When you see the small cave in front, you have reached the upper Tunnel Vision Formation. There are currently others projects within this area containing visible bolts. 

The Approach Pitch (5.5, 65 ft) will bring you to the base "Moon Cycle" and starts approximately 25ft, uphill from the small cave feature which puts you into a low angle finger crack system with large blocky footholds. 

Top Rope: If you intend to TR, you can continue walking uphill on slick grass while hugging the wall until you reach a large grassy platform. Walk approx 100ft on the backside of the formation until you see an old pair of mining boots where you will turn left and ascend to the highest point of the formation. Both climbers can rappel in or a climber can be lowered in from above by the belayer.**

Take care when walking closely to the edge of the open crack, as moss is slick, and a natural anchor can be set up in a distinct and clean crack system 20 feet from the bolted anchors. 

A walk off is fastest but a Rappel station is visible 15ft to the east at the top of Moon Cycle (Orange Cord/quicklink) and can safely bring you to the base of the approach pitch with a 60m. 

**A Rappel Station/Belay Anchor has yet to be bolted at the base of Moon Cycle as of 10SEP20.

Anchors: 2x 3/8" bolts with Quicklinks

Approach Pitch: .3-3" 

Moon Cycle: #4-#8 Camalot , #3-#5 Big Bro if available