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Go Back to the Bay

5.8, Sport, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 33 votes
FA: Tommy and Laura Bairstow
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Bowman/Emeralds > Emeralds > Benches > Slide Wall
Warning Access Issue: No overnight camping on PG&E property DetailsDrop down

Description

Before anyone gets their panty's in a bunch, the name of this route is geared toward all the city folk trashing our watershed this summer (2020). I'm not hating on all you bay area climbers. For the most part my interactions with bay area climbers are pleasant, polite, and downright enjoyable. I like you guys, stay gold.

Location

Located just past the dihedral that is Gutter Ball. just past the gully. Starts on a fun finger crack on the slab, first bolt is after 15 feet of easy climbing. Climb though a finger crack, hand crack, great edges, and a steep slab finish. 

Protection

7 bolts. Mussy Hook anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Max after 2nd bolt
[Hide Photo] Max after 2nd bolt
A little wet this time of year. A little runout for beginners. No sweat for grandpa though.
[Hide Photo] A little wet this time of year. A little runout for beginners. No sweat for grandpa though.
Practiced placing cams up to the 1st bolt
[Hide Photo] Practiced placing cams up to the 1st bolt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Simon Leigh
SF, CA
  5.8 PG13
[Hide Comment] I would disagree that this is no longer run out. Everything's relative of course and it sounds like this has been improved, but I mean when compared to the other routes on the slide wall, or other new routes at Emeralds like the Moon area. I would not suggest a noob 5.8 leader try this one. The gap from third to fourth is ~ 30ft, and the rock a bit suspect too given that a hold popped in this section. While you wouldn't have a ground fall, a fall while clipping the 4th would be a likely injury. The first bolt is high and can't be stick clipped which encourages people to start in the 4th class gully and traverse in rather than the finger crack on the slab. The 4th to 5th bolt is also a bit long. And if you're not confident on 5.8 slab, then the finish to the anchors will get the heart pounding and IMO the crux ;)

Also FWIW there is now a bolted route in between this and Integral that goes up the gully. There may also soon be a route to the left as there are some anchors, but no bolts below.

Obviously not every route needs to be gym bolted, so take the beta for what it's worth, I just didn't want people trying it thinking they'll have the same spice level as Integral or the other slide routes :) Dec 6, 2020