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Routes in Allen's Ridge Area
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Alpenbock Crack T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Cavity Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hanging Slab Gully WI3 |
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Hanging Slab Right - Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Steinfell Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Trench Warfare T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 740 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Thomas on Sep 4, 2020 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
From the Granite Guide:
"Likely the most bizarre climbing in the Wasatch. This one is for all you wide & funky lovers!"Agreed. This was wide, but also extremely bizarre & funky in more of a sport climbing or bouldering sort of way mixed in. VERY hard for 5.9.
Climb the slab to the trees, then climb the ascending roof crack (#4-#5 C4s, lower crux), turn the corner into a flaring overhanging chimney (VG9/#7-#8 C4 size at the tightest), and scootch up to the chockstone that gradually dumps you out onto the overhang (higher, harder crux). Body torque off your legs to fight this as you work up good jams before a fist+bear hug finish, where you either smear feet on the underside of the overhand or do a wild stem to the protruding blocks on the left.
Finish up an easy squeeze and hand traverse/rail walk downclimb to a bong bong piton and tight hands gear. From here either belay followers before finishing, or use a long sling. Finish is via unprotected 5.5ish slab to the bushes.
To descend, traverse the brush ledge along the next slab area about 50' to the East (left) to some rappel anchors. A single 60m rope will get you down.
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