Electric Shitstorm
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Abel Jones |
Page Views: | 743 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Chris Kalman on Sep 1, 2020 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
The USFS will be frequently monitoring the Peregrine Falcons so that they can open areas as soon as possible. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of the entire walls or crags, and we ask that climbers adhere to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org or the US Forest Service @ 928-526-0866 and ask to speak with a biologist."
Description
Stand on top of a boulder to clip the first bolt, then climb out the roof somewhat diagonally on good holds to a tough lip encounter, followed by a good rest. Quest up a little higher to clip a bolt, followed by a few hard moves to an undercling. Make a difficult clip, then pull a tough sequence to another good rest. Climb up the crack (doubles in .4 and .5 will work), then finish on the fun (though hollow) jug flake up high.
CAUTION: if you fall in the 30 feet following the crux sequence, you may impale yourself on an aspen tree. It's quite a bit easier there, but the rock is a little hollow, so be careful.
Apparently this is an old Abel Jones route. Not the best 12 at the Peaks, but a good one to do if you're running out of climbs in the grade range. The starting sequence is worth it on its own.
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