Madame Rêve

Approach 1h15 from "Plan de l’Aiguille"

• Follow an inconspicuous path leading towards the right of the NNW face of the Peigne, at the start of the Arête des Papillons. Then on your left, find a large, 20-or-so meter-tall boulder. Get around its right side (often firn). A little way above, on a vertical line from it, a system of terraces starts. Follow them towards the left. The path is marked with cairns. Climb a 15-meter mantel shelf (glue-in at the top for abseiling and belaying), then reach the base of the routes by following some platform systems...
• The starting platform can be found to the right of the face, spot the obvious area with the roof in the second pitch. The start is on the upper terrace about 50 meters left of the large corner which separates the NNW face and the arête des Papilons.
  Many routes have been bolted in the area. «Madame Rêve» begins 10 meters to the right of «Ticket». Spot a sort of detached «candle» on the the slab shield (R1 is shared with «Le Ticket»). Light grey hangers in the slab 15 meters above the platform. 

• «Madame Rêve» is very close to «Le Ticket», a more classical route. Mostly composed of slabs, sometimes exposed, it’s a serious route which requires a cool head. The 5.12d wall is extreme, but short. The route was rebolted by the author in July 2017. Anchors were reinforced and some bolts were added. A beautiful climb, compulsory 5.11a.
• 750 feet of rock climbing / compulsory 5.11a
• Anchors are bolted - 2 bolts and quicklink
• 10-12 quickdraws of which 3-4 extendables
• 50m rappels. 60m ropes advised
• Route rebolted in 2017
• More information : chamgranit-topos.com/cham_n…
• Translation from french by Aanoud Petermann

Pitch 1 (40m 5.11a): From the upper ledge, just right of «Ticket», overcome the little wall and get to the compact slab, 2 bolts on the slab. Leave it by climbing to the right, and come back left towards the crack which marks the limit of the right side of the «tower». R1 is at its summit, shared with «Le Ticket».

Pitch 2 (30m 5.10d): From R1, go straight towards the bolt (left is the «Ticket» = 1 piton, then glue-ins) Overcome the small roof and continue by traversing leftwards. Follow the bolted line on the slab. Exit to the right towards R2 which is on a small platform. 3 anchors here: left, the rappel line, in the middle, R2 of «Ticket», and, to the right, R2 of «Madame Rêve».

Pitch 3 (40m 5.11a): From R2 on the right, overcome the very delicate slab above - 2 bolts - exit upwards right, and head for an obvious corner.    Follow the corner upwards left. Leave it by way of a leftwards traverse and get to some fragile flakes which lead to R3.

Pitch 4 (40m 5.10b): From R3, climb the corner on the left and traverse to the right under the roof, head towards a cracked-corner system. R4 is at its exit, under a little bulge. R4 of the «Ticket» is a little higher to the left.

Pitch 5 (35m 5.11a): From «Madame Rêve»’s R4, climb upwards left for 5 meters, then at the height of the «Ticket»’s R4, go towards the right in the middle of the slab following a quartz vein. Head right to a small roof, rebalance to the right and come back resolutely to the left to reach R5.

Pitch 6 (35m 5.12d/A0): From R5, go left and overcome the steep wall above (5.12d). Exit these hard 8 meters by following a thin crack on the left (piton). Continue in the slab, straight ahead in the direction of the roof. Overcome it and reach R6 after a section of easier slabs

Pitch 7 (30m 5.10c): From R6, climb above the slab - 2 bolts - then the first part of the obvious corner. Then leave it and head right, and finally straight on up to the ledges of the Aiguille du Peigne’s normal route. 

It’s possible to rap down in the route, but personally I prefer the «Ticket»’s abseils, which are better bolted. 

For the rappels of «Ticket»: From the summit of «Mme Rêve», follow the ledge on the left until the start of the abseils. Beware, no chain at R3 and R4 in the «Ticket» route, go from «Ticket»’s R5 directly to the Rappel point mentionned on the guide, then head to R2 and from there directly to the starting platform.