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Curley the Spandex Alien

5.11, Sport, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 11 votes
FA: Justine Poole, Clay Lippincott - Aug 2020
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Atlantis > Funny Farm
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

The start to this route is tricky and the rock is softer than most of the rock in the area, so be mindful up to the roof (hint don't get tricked into the off width to the left). Pull the roof to the right and cruise the rest of the way to the anchors while enjoying the view.

Location

Not too hard to find because it’s the only route in the area with glue in’s at the start.

Protection

12 or 13 bolts to rap anchors. It’s not a mixed route so no gear is needed. (We might be adding a perma draw below the roof)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The draws that are hanging on the glue in bolts are the start of this route.
[Hide Photo] The draws that are hanging on the glue in bolts are the start of this route.
Tricky throw for a short person.
[Hide Photo] Tricky throw for a short person.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sam Cook
phoenix
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Technical and balanced to the roof.
Be careful of crumbly rock above the ledge/3rd bolt. Otherwise solid rock.

A healhook on the ledge and left hand on horn helps clipping 4th bolt.

Get on this rig! Jan 31, 2021
Matthew Dion
Tempe, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Death block marked with x after bolt 6 I think, but it felt deceivingly solid. Be careful once the chalk X wears off!!!!

Climbing up til the roof was chossy, hard to trust any feet. Got more solid after that, but still kicked off some chunks. May 21, 2021
Nadia Elliott
Tempe, AZ
[Hide Comment] Techy start followed by very crumbly feet at the roof. A solid throw for a short person is needed to clear the roof, then it’s all easy after that. Good route, just needs much more traffic to get cleaned up! Jul 12, 2021