Type: Trad, Ice, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Colin Bell, Gilles LaCroix and Fred Doucette 1978.
Page Views: 469 total · 9/month
Shared By: Greg Hughes on Aug 17, 2020
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes

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Description Suggest change

Start on a crack riddled slab below an obvious large chimney/cave. Climb the slab to a steep crack with good finger locks and hand jams. Gain a sloping ledge that leads to the back of the cave. Follow the weakness in the back of the cave moving up and right. Wild stemming will take you to a stance below a juggy overhanging section. Follow this up to lower angled wide cracks that lead to a bolted anchor. 

History: This route was originally climbed back in 1978 as an ice climb by Colin Bell and company. In August of 2020 after a long dry period this usually wet route was climbed by Greg Hughes and Dom Caron using only rock gear for protection. 

Location Suggest change

Move up the scree field past the nose approaching the back wall of Pooh Corner. Cave Fever is the impossible to miss feature on the left wall. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 3 or 4. Long runners are absolutely esential to reduce rope drag. Maybe double up on .75 to 2. Bolted anchor. Rap the route. You can get down with a 60 meter rope but a few feet of easy down climbing may be required. Tie knots!

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