Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Rupesh Chhagan & Clayton Reagan
Page Views: 889 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jesse Bruni on Aug 13, 2020
Admins: mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars

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Description Suggest change

The namesake of this route, the brainstem, is obvious if you know what to look for. A tufa ball resembling a brain and spinal cord as the lip turns. This route follows a series of viciously small, glued crimps left of the boltline into the large sidepull feature, then heading out left onto the brainstem and up.

Unfortunately a signficant amount of choss has broken on this line and there is now quite a large jug directly under the boltline allowing for a more easy, direct variation to climb into the sidepull feature. Using these holds removes several V-grades of difficulty from the low section, avoid them if you want to claim the 5.14 grade.

Location Suggest change

Just right of Dreamkeeper, starting on the same ledge. Bolt 3 is a double, use the lower one. Finish on the same anchors as Dreamkeeper.

A variation of this route, "Evolution of Choss" climbs the first 5 bolts of Brainstem before cutting right to finish on the anchors of Too Many Donuts. There is a large beehive that may or may not be active in this area. Proceed with caution.

Protection Suggest change

7 bolts + anchors

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