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Social Dispensing
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 11
votes
Routes in River Wall II
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Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hero to Zero aka H2O S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lost Horizons T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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New Horizon S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Papadarius S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Paternity Leave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pimpa la Bimpa S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pocket Hercules T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reservoir Dogs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Social Dispensing S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Technicolor Nightmare TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Darek Krol, April 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,260 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Darek Krol 1 on Aug 11, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Social Dispensing is a slab climb, less than vertical but with enough techy moves to make you feel like it was harder than adjacent Redneck Hero. Body position and foot work are key on this route, so you have a taste of what climbing in Buoux in '80s was. A little footsy crux at the second bolt is followed by easier climbing to another crimps-smears puzzle. Keep it together to pull over and right of a small roof to the final slab crux. High feet will help overcoming the fear of botching the last move.
Location
The route follows the "corner house" of the middle cliff and starts about 15 feet to the right of Redneck Hero. Begin either straight up from a dry river bed, or when the water is high, start from the top of the big boulder. Both ways of starting present the same difficulty.
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