Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade V
FA: Phil Gruber and Josh Wharton, 8/9/20
Page Views: 2,989 total · 58/month
Shared By: j wharton on Aug 11, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Although essentially a link-up, with approximately only eighty feet of previously unclimbed terrain, this is a fantastic route, and probably the most accessible 5.13 on the Diamond. It should become deservedly popular for people looking to up the ante from Diamond 5.12s, but finding The Honeymoon is Over and Gambler's Fallacy a bit much to bite off, and the frequent wetness issues on the Dunn-Westbay Indirect problematic. The nature of the climbing, with short lived, well protected cruxes, makes it an excellent candidate for no rehearsal, ground up efforts.

Begin by climbing the first five pitches of Eroica (possibly in four if you link the two opening pitches). After the crux of Eroica's fifth pitch, face climb right across jugs, passing another bolt en route to a two bolt anchor at a small stance.

P6:12a, 50'. Move left off the belay into the base of the obvious wide flake. A cam or two leads to bolt protected, strenuous laybacking up the gaping flake and a small ledge with fixed anchor. In comparison to the old school Eroica ratings, this pitch may be rated a bit softly, but it's fairly pumpy, especially if you're not well acclimated.

P7:13a, 70'. Undercling right off the anchor, and join The Honeymoon is Over. Climb up another fun layback flake to a steep, bouldery bulge, and easier but still tricky climbing to a fixed gear belay at Table Ledge.

P8:12d, 100'. Continue as for The Honeymoon..., but above the first bolt, avoid a difficult bouldery section by staying right in some fragile flakes, before underclinging back left into The Honeymoon..., ten feet higher. More awesome underclinging and laybacking leads pasts several rests to a heartbreaking long move near the end of the pitch. 

P9:12b, 120'. Traverse left off the belay past two bolts, to gear protected climbing up seams. A boulder problem finale, guards the very tippy top of The Diamond.

Notes:

It is possible to avoid sharing terrain with Casual Route by climbing the right side of the D1 pillar to a right-facing corner/roof system located to the right of the Casual Route’s second pitch 5.9 finger crack. This helps avoid any issues with crowding.

The once spicy fourth pitch of Eroica now has several fixed pins and wires and is very well-protected.

Location Suggest change

Begin with Eroica.

Protection Suggest change

A single set of wires and cams to #3 C4 with a few extra small to medium cams.

Photos

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