All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Diamond

Beethoven's Honeymoon

Name: Beethoven's Honeymoon
Rating: 4.0

5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British

Routes in The Diamond

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Beethoven's Honeymoon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Black Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
	Dunn-Westbay Indirect T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Enos Mills Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2
	Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Forrest Finish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Free Grand Traverse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Gambler's Fallacy T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Obelisk, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade V
FA:	Phil Gruber and Josh Wharton, 8/9/20
Page Views:	2,991 total · 57/month
Shared By:	j wharton on Aug 11, 2020 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

Although essentially a link-up, with approximately only eighty feet of previously unclimbed terrain, this is a fantastic route, and probably the most accessible 5.13 on the Diamond. It should become deservedly popular for people looking to up the ante from Diamond 5.12s, but finding The Honeymoon is Over and Gambler's Fallacy a bit much to bite off, and the frequent wetness issues on the Dunn-Westbay Indirect problematic. The nature of the climbing, with short lived, well protected cruxes, makes it an excellent candidate for no rehearsal, ground up efforts.

Begin by climbing the first five pitches of Eroica (possibly in four if you link the two opening pitches). After the crux of Eroica's fifth pitch, face climb right across jugs, passing another bolt en route to a two bolt anchor at a small stance.

P6:12a, 50'. Move left off the belay into the base of the obvious wide flake. A cam or two leads to bolt protected, strenuous laybacking up the gaping flake and a small ledge with fixed anchor. In comparison to the old school Eroica ratings, this pitch may be rated a bit softly, but it's fairly pumpy, especially if you're not well acclimated.

P7:13a, 70'. Undercling right off the anchor, and join The Honeymoon is Over. Climb up another fun layback flake to a steep, bouldery bulge, and easier but still tricky climbing to a fixed gear belay at Table Ledge.

P8:12d, 100'. Continue as for The Honeymoon..., but above the first bolt, avoid a difficult bouldery section by staying right in some fragile flakes, before underclinging back left into The Honeymoon..., ten feet higher. More awesome underclinging and laybacking leads pasts several rests to a heartbreaking long move near the end of the pitch.

P9:12b, 120'. Traverse left off the belay past two bolts, to gear protected climbing up seams. A boulder problem finale, guards the very tippy top of The Diamond.

Notes:

It is possible to avoid sharing terrain with Casual Route by climbing the right side of the D1 pillar to a right-facing corner/roof system located to the right of the Casual Route’s second pitch 5.9 finger crack. This helps avoid any issues with crowding.

The once spicy fourth pitch of Eroica now has several fixed pins and wires and is very well-protected.