Avg: 3.6 from 9
votes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 
Highlights of Big Game Hunter include a bolted face climbing crux (P3), a stellar stembox/corner (P4), and a well protected mega chimney (P7). The only runout climbing is on the first pitch in 5.8 terrain and all belays are bolted.
Because the lead bolts in the crux were hand drilled on lead, one can A0 through the crux with ease, however 5.11 free climbing is mandatory. Although this wall is fully south facing, most of the pitches get shade until early afternoon given the westward aspect of the major dihedral formation.
P1** 5.9R, 90ft
Scramble up a ledge system to start at the base of a slabby right-facing dihedral with a fixed pin. Climb to a system of 5.8 runout ledges aiming for a lead bolt that protects easy slab moves to the anchor.
P2* 5.10-, 60ft
Can be done a few ways, but don’t be fooled. The best way is to scramble all the way down the ramp to the big ledge. Perform a mantle, then climb straight up the left-facing crack to the anchor with rap rings at the base of the offwidth. Protection can be sparse.
P3**** 5.12d, 140ft
Launch up the gaping offwidth/chimney and make your way up to a bolt. Protection before the bolt is thin and will create rope drag if not extended well. Clip the second bolt and exit the chimney to climbers right on fun face climbing that leads to a splitter finger crack. (DO NOT continue left up the offwidth for an enticing, but abandoned 3rd bolt.) Then, follow the thin crack up great straight in climbing to a tightly bolted face climbing crux in a dihedral. Belay in a shady ledge behind the pillar.
P4**** 5.11c, 150ft
Take the easy flared chimney up to the top of the pillar. Step into the stembox and enjoy thin locks and amazing stems up to an incredible handcrack. A final bit of offwidth caps the crack underneath a good belay stance.
P5* 5.11b, 125ft
Some chimney offwidthing leads to awkward three dimensional climbing protected by bolts and a finger piece. Reach a ledge, and continue up some adventure climbing to another ledge and a bolted anchor. This pitch was originally lead without bolts.
P6 5.0, 50ft
Move the belay to the base of the chimney. Gear anchor.
P7**** 5.9, 180ft
Simply put: nearly a rope length of incredible chimney climbing that protects with mostly hand sized pieces. Belay at bolted anchor w/ rap rings at a stance near the top of the chimney. Future parties should rap the route from here.
---There is more climbing above for an additional 200ft, but it's less favorable and dangerous. These pitches are not included in the topo---
P8 5.8, 50ft
Tunnel your way through the aforementioned bush and scramble up to the next ledge. Gear anchor.
P9 5.11bR/X, 150ft
Climb up the leaning offwidth to an unprotected dihedral. Burrow around the bushes to the right. One bolt belay.
Five double rope raps to the base. The first rap out of the chimney is a serious rope stretcher!
This is the major dihedral near the center of Beatty Point's south face.
Single 00, #3-#5
Doubles .3-#2
Triples .4-.75 (optional)
10 draws/slings
Double 70m ropes
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Phoenix, AZ
Denver, CO
When Kolob opens up in 2067 you should check this one out! Aug 20, 2020
Utah / Alaska
Denver, CO
youtube.com/watch?v=XR5cZi7… Dec 23, 2020
Boulder, CO
Bend, OR
Realistically P3 and P4 are standout pitches that are both quite good. The actual climbing on pitch 5 is pretty friable and it ends all too soon in low angle choss. I didn't really think the P7 chimney was worth wading through the hundreds of feet of loose, vegetated, and low angle climbing to get to it, but I also don't lose sleep thinking about chimney climbing, so YMMV. An additional mark against the chimney is that it doesn't really end anywhere prominent, but rather at an anchor on the side of the cliff, in a chimney, with steep rock remaining above.
The rack beta felt pretty spot on, but we also brought a green and red c3 and were happy to have both. We didn't have a 70m tag, so used a 60m which forced a 15' downclimb into the anchor after the first rappel, but it wasn't too bad.
On pitch 2 we didn't go the recommended way, but rather traversed easily rightward off the belay to access a short groove to the vegetated belay ledge that the pitch ends on. It was simple exposed bushwhacking to get from the left end of the bushy ledge to the right. (where the anchor is) The recommended way looked poorly protected and kind of contrived. With a bit of pruning, the way we went would be super chill.
Getting to the first bolt on P3 involves a fairly committing mantel. Even with runner-ed pro in the chimney below, it felt high consequence to me. Getting to and clipping the 2nd bolt is less scary than it looks from below. (you can also put cams in the crack to protect the move to it and then easily back clean) The upper crux is a cool boulder, but get on it while it's still incut. When it inevitably erodes from 12d to 13c, there's a cool looking variation stepping left to the arete and then back right near the top of the boulder that would require a few more bolts. Lastly, if you're trying to put in redpoint burns on the crux, you could belay at a no hands foot ledge halfway up on finger cams. It's not as good a stance as the other belays, but is definitely a belay-worthy stance and this would allow lowering back to the anchor easily between burns without an 80m rope. (if that'd even be long enough)
Lastly pitch 6 is more like 120' than 50'. Apr 10, 2024