The Golden Staircase, pitches 12, 13, 14
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 340 ft (103 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | 'Golden Staircase' - Dustin Dyer and friends |
Page Views: | 1,251 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Byron Murray on Aug 2, 2020 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
This is a three-pitch line up the far left side of the Upper Great Face. It has good position, thoughtful climbing, and an amazing traverse on P2.
P1. Follow 9 bolts angling slightly left. A purple #0.5 Camalot is helpful between one set of bolts, 110 feet.
P2. Follow 12 bolts traversing to the right. Look for anchors out right after the traverse ends, 120 feet.
P3. Follow 6 bolts to the summit, 110 feet.
Descent: rap from nice bolts down to the 5.10 ledge (large belay ledge). Do three raps to the ground. From the 5.10 ledge, it is possible to downclimb or lower down to the start of P2 of The Golden Monkey.
Location
This is about 40 feet left of the start of The Golden Monkey. At the moment, this is the far left bolted line.
3 Comments