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Routes in f. Wizard Wall
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Naked Savage T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grub T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Eye in the Sky S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Sky Walker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Phylynx T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Walk on Water T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mind Games T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wizard T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Bob McGown, Tim Olson, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 573 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Fletch PDX on Jul 25, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Description
Also known as God Monster in the Rocky Butte Quarry guidebook.
The rock is fairly slick without a lot of texture. This starts at the Eye in the Sky lower belay anchor and up the left-facing wide crack with large juggy ledges. Alternatively, you can worm your way up the leftward diagonal off-width to get to the top of the ledge, to add a more sustained 10c feeling to the route, which will require pro to 2" to protect. Getting through the split rock bulge is the burly crux. After the crux, continue onto a ledge. You can continue up a short section of easy corner climbing to the top where the Eye in the Sky / Skywalker tree anchor lives.
Location
From the top, extend from the tree to get to the Skywalker/Eye in the Sky bolted anchor or 20 feet further down to the standalone anchor. Then rappel from the anchor to the ground. Look straight up and you'll see a massive wide left-facing crack which is your route.
From the bottom, look for the #4 marker which is Bill's Buttress. Further right, there is a grand ground prow with the climb on the face towards the highway
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